Scone Spy: Our cafe critic heads to Bessie's Cafe, Culross

The vivid yellow outside seating area at Bessie’s

It was just last month that I promised to return to lovely Culross, the ancient and picturesque village in Fife – a royal burgh no less.

And, true to my word, I am here, to meet a friend for a walk and, all going well, find a scone worth spying on this cold but clear day.

The last time I was at Bessie’s Cafe it was the height of summer a few years ago and the outside seating area – with its vivid yellow exterior walls – was packed.

This time it is a very different, but no less pleasing, vibe, as we enter this cosy cottage cafe. The interior is warm but feels dark and inviting on a cold, wintry day – almost like a cocoon where we can rest and reheat. The cafe is quite busy this early afternoon, with a gentle murmur of chatter.

The decor is very much in keeping with the cottage building, with exposed original beams and heavy dark wooden furnishing. At the counter, I immediately spy a range of scone work – plain, fruit and cheese options.

I also lock on an intriguing chocolate Guinness cake – of which more later.

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First, we order two soups, a lentil and a spicy lentil version. I have to admit that I am still unsure which one I received, but it was deliciously warm, with a little kick (I ordered the regular soup, hence the slight confusion).

It came with crunchy bread and I supplemented mine with a cheese scone. The scone was warm – a great start – and had a soft, buttery texture inside with a hint of wholemeal, which I felt complimented the cottagey vibe perfectly.

I also ordered a latte, which was creamy and strong without being over the top. Then came the aforementioned chocolate Guinness cake. And, oh my, what a treat. It was dark, rich and moist, with a layer of creamy white icing on top. It was so dense and black that it instantly puts you in mind of its Guinnessy goodness, even if you can only just get a tang of the iron-rich stout.

After this warming wonder, we set off for our countryside walk. Is it too much to return for a third time in as many weeks?

I hope not.