Mount Everest – The Honest Truth

The world’s highest peak has tantalised generations of adventurers.

IT’S 60 years since Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay conquered Mount Everest. At 29,029 ft, the world’s highest mountain tantalised generations of adventurers, luring many to an icy death. But it wasn’t until the British-led expedition of 1953 that the enormous peak on the Nepal-Tibet border was finally climbed. Mick Conefrey is author of Everest: 1953. Last week a fight broke out between climbers and Sherpas high up on Everest’s slopes. Mick told Robert Wight The Honest Truth about the massive mountain.

How did Everest get its name?

It’s after George Everest, a surveyor general of India. The British began surveying the area’s mountains in the 19th Century. The Nepalese call Everest Sagarmatha and the Tibetans Chomo-lungma. Normally, the survey would record these names. But since Everest is the highest in the world they believed it deserved a British name. George Everest wasn’t happy. He thought we should stick with local names.

Were there many attempts before the successful one?

Seven official bids. Pre-war, they were all British and all from the Tibetan side Nepal wouldn’t let anyone in because they were afraid the British would try to annex the Kingdom.

After China invaded Tibet, that route closed too but Nepal decided to allow one team a year, which sparked an international race in 1952 the Swiss had a go, then the Brits in ’53. The French were lined up to go the following year, then the Swiss again.

Most famous of the early attempts?

George Mallory and Sandy Irvine in 1924. They were last seen a few hundred metres from the summit before being engulfed by a fierce storm. They carried a camera which many think would prove whether they reached the top.

Most climbers don’t believe they did. Mallory’s body was found in 1999 but the search for Irvine who had the camera goes on. Mallory’s the man who, when asked why he wanted to climb Everest, said: “Because it’s there.”

What is the “Death Zone”?

The zone above 26,000 ft. There’s not enough oxygen to sustain human life for any length of time. Climbers above this height are slowly dying they become increasingly tired and their bodies start to shut down.

What’s your opinion of the fight between the three Western climbers and 100 Sherpas?

There have always been tensions. Life is hard for the Sherpas they often live in extreme poverty, a world away from what the rich tourists who climb the mountain have experienced. The popular image is of a smiling, friendly Sherpa. That’s true but they won’t be pushed around. It’s interesting that the climbers were there independently no guides employed. More and more of these groups are tackling the mountain it won’t sit easy with the Sherpas who rely on Everest for their livelihoods.

How many people took part in the 1953 expedition?

It was a huge operation led by John Hunt. There were 11 climbers, a load of Sherpas, bearers, support staff a massive team. Hillary and Tenzing were just a small part of it but of course they’re all anyone really remembers.

Why were Hillary and Tenzing selected for the summit?

They were actually the second of three teams. The first team Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans made it to within a few hundred feet of the summit, before being forced to turn back.

It was oxygen that they stashed on the mountain that helped Hillary and Tenzing make it all the way. The pair were a natural choice for the summit as a New Zealander, Hillary was experienced at climbing on ice and snow. Tenzing had vast experience of Everest itself.

Who was first to the top Hillary or Sherpa Tenzing?

It was never an issue for the pair it was always seen as a joint effort. Some sections of the Indian and Nepalese Press, though, claimed Tenzing was first, even that he practically dragged Hillary to the top. It wasn’t long after Indian independence and there was a lot of “anti-colonial” feeling. The team thought it more dignified not to comment but Tenzing later revealed in his autobiography that Hillary actually set foot on the summit just before he did.

Hillary got a knighthood afterwards what happened to Tenzing?

There were some claims of discrimination at the time but it wasn’t a snub. Although he was born in Nepal, he lived in India and their constitution forbids the acceptance of foreign honours. Because they couldn’t give him a knight-hood, the British wanted to award the George Medal even this took lots of negotiation. Tenzing was very poor a fund was set up that allowed him to buy a house and he got a pension.

How did they celebrate getting to the summit?

Tenzing buried some sweets and a pencil given to him by his daughter. It was an offering to the gods. Hillary buried a crucifix John Hunt had been given by a monk.

Before they left Hillary also had a pee! He didn’t reveal this until his third autobiography.

How would Hillary and Tenzing compare to modern climbers?

Everything’s changed from equipment to the mentality of climbers. In those days it was believed you couldn’t climb that high without oxygen. They also had enormous teams to carry everything.

Elite climbers today rarely use oxygen. Their gear is much lighter and it’s all about speed. I’m sure Hillary and Tenzing would still hold their own though.

How significant an achievement for Britain was the expedition?

Hugely significant. It wasn’t long after the war. Britain was struggling the Empire was being broken up and our international standing was on the wane. This was a boost.

What’s your background?

I’m a writer and documentary maker specialising in subjects like mountains and exploration. I’m not a mountaineer although I have been to the bottom of lots of mountains!