The jury’s out on whether jet lag remedies really work. But while I can’t claim it’s a complete cure, standing near a roaring Multnomah Falls, engulfed in its cheek-pelting cloud of spray, certainly helps.
Columbia River Gorge, a designated National Scenic Area just outside Portland, Oregon, spans 80 miles and boasts the highest concentration of waterfalls in North America. At 620ft, Multnomah is the tallest.
Surrounded by forested cliffs and ridges, it’s a breathtaking sight and spirit-revving soak when you get near – and just an hour’s drive out of the city.
Portland, known as the city of makers, is full of surprises.
Oregon’s largest city, Portland sits between California and Washington State in the US Pacific Northwest. It might be somewhere you’ve heard more and more of in recent years – perhaps for its burgeoning craft food and drinks scene, or hip neighbourhoods brimming with colourful houses and cool boutiques.
For me, the promise of great food is the biggest attraction – which is why on my first morning, I find myself tucking into a breakfast burrito at the Farmers’ Market at Portland State University.
The gooey meld of cheesy potato, egg and crunchy greens instantly hits the spot, and just a 10-minute walk from The Heathman Hotel where I’m staying (yes, 50 Shades Of Grey fans, the same Heathman Hotel), it’s well worth the skipped lie-in.
BA have just launched a direct route to Portland, with five flights per week planned year-round from London Heathrow, making getting here a lot easier.
Oregon is an outdoors mecca, with a wealth of forest trails, hills, lakes and rivers reachable within a short drive from the city, and rugged coastline and mountains further afield.
First Nature offers a range of guided activities and tours, such as kayaking, rafting and hiking. We spend a day out of town, starting with an excursion to the Columbia River Gorge.
Multnomah Falls has a wheelchair-accessible viewing platform, and getting close enough for that reviving face-pelt means a five-minute walk up a path (there are steeper trails if you want to hike to the top).
Wine with a view
A little further out, the landscape gives way to sweeping vineyards, flower fields and fruit and hazelnut orchards. An ideal way to explore the scenery – and sample its treasures – is a tour with MountNbarreL We opt for their Pine Grove tour, a relaxed half-day e-bike meander through the lower Hood River “Fruit Loop”, with bike, wine, cider and lunch stop included.
We lunch at The Gorge White House (after a flight of their delicious ciders) and pit stop at Mt. Hood Winery, where visitors can enjoy the estate’s famed pinot beside views of a snow-capped Mount Hood.
Our tour ends at nearby winery Wy-East – the Native American word for Mt. Hood – whose close proximity to the mountain means the vineyard boasts 100% volcanic soil.
Fun and feasting
Closer to town, Amaterra Winery offers a mouth-watering seasonal menu in their stunning restaurant, against a backdrop of the Willamette Valley. Just a few miles outside the city, it’s well worth a visit.
It’s not all about booze – a delight for anyone fond of a good brew is Smith Teamaker. We head to their main site on SE Washington St, about a 15-minute drive from the hotel, for breakfast followed by a tea tasting and tour of their factory. Everything is designed to highlight their teas in some form or other – such as their delicious hazelnut granola and Chai.
When it comes to eating out, there’s tons to choose from. Real winners are Oma’s Hideaway for Southeast Asian dishes with a twist, and Paadee for stylish Thai comfort food. Portland has a thriving street food scene too. For lunch, head to one of the city’s food cart pods – yards filled with foot trucks and seating areas – such as Hawthorne Asylum.
Soak up the city
To really feel like a cool local, leave time to mill around town too. A favourite spot is Nob Hill, where you can stock up on artisan chocolate from The Meadow and get in line for legendary ice cream at Salt & Straw on NW 23rd Avenue, and dip in and out of coffee shops, boutiques and vintage stores galore.
Downtown, don’t miss a visit to Powell’s, Portland’s largest independent bookstore with floor upon floor of ceiling-high shelves. I happily while away a couple of hours browsing, before walking to the Portland Art Museum, which has a great collection of historical and contemporary Native American art.
There are pockets of nature in the city, too. At Portland Japanese Garden, situated on the West Hills with great skyline views, you can join a group tour and soak up some serious tranquillity, as you meander through its winding paths surrounded by lush, moss-coated trees.
Swing by the tearoom for a pot of Japanese tea and sweet treats, before heading down the hill to nearby Washington Park to check out another gem – the International Rose Test Garden. America’s oldest official public rose test garden, it features more than 10,000 roses and helps explain another of Portland’s names: city of roses.
City of makers, city of food, city of roses… However you choose to sum up Portland, it’s a city that will leave you wanting more.
British Airways Holidays offer five nights at the four-star The Heathman, from £999pp, travelling on selected dates between January 1-31, 2023, including economy flights from London Heathrow and 23kg luggage allowance. Book by July 17 at britishairways.com/holidays
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