It’s bliss in Bordeaux

Trams, shopping and culture raise a glass to a special destination.

Bordeaux is a clean, modern and vibrant riverside city that looks to the future while very much still embracing its past.

I’ve loved it for many years (and not just because I enjoy a good glass of red!). It’s got everything you love about France, all wrapped up in one city.

Stroll through the elegant streets surrounded by stone columns and noble facades and you’ll see the wealth and prosperity that has come from centuries of being the world’s greatest wine centre.

The transformation of the city was thanks to a huge programme of renovation begun back in 1996 by Alain Jupp, the current Mayor.

While still elegant, the city was looking a bit tired, so the dark, dirty limestone buildings were cleaned and restored and the riverbank regenerated.

As a result, UNESCO World Heritage status was awarded to the city in 2007.

To maintain the city’s pristine state, many green policies were introduced, including one of the most environmentally-friendly tram systems in Europe.

Cycling is big in the city with a wide network of bicycle lanes and there are even rickshaws to rent. “Dimanche Bordeaux” takes place on the first Sunday of each month where the city centre is free of cars so pedestrians, cyclists and rollerbladers take over.

I’m a bit long in the tooth for that, so I explored on shanks’s pony, but for those of you less lazy (or fitter) than me, it’s worth knowing about.

The redesigned waterfront along the quays of the Garonne is now lined with bars, cafs, sports facilities and parks.

The main centres on the left bank are on the Quai de Chartrons, with a skate park and a twice-weekly organic market, and Place de la Bourse, with its beautiful central fountain and the innovative Miroir d’eau (a shallow reflective pool that doubles as a paddling pool in hot weather).

The new and the old Bordeaux are typified in the newly-chic Chartrons area where the traditional wine merchants do business. Here you can also shop for antiques, take a break in coffee shops, visit the Museum of Modern Art and eat in tapas bars or fusion food restaurants.

If you want great shopping, Bordeaux has the Rue St Catherine, the longest pedestrianised shopping street in Europe.

The Tourist Office in the city centre (bordeaux-tourisme.com) is the best place to start. They offer guided tours of Old Bordeaux and short breaks to the vineyards.

River Cruises provide a good view of the city, again book through the tourist office.

The highlight of my trip was wine tasting at the cole du Vin. Based at the Bordeaux Wine Council, opposite the Tourist Office, there are Express Summer Courses just two hours long but boy, do you learn a lot.

Armed with my new knowledge I then hit the many wine shops to buy some local vintages.

A spectacular haven to wine is L’Intendant, with its air-conditioned wine tower housing more than 15,000 bottles.

Stop off for a glass at Max Bordeaux Wine Bar and Gallery which boasts 48 grand crus. And what goes with wine and is typical of France?

Yep, fromage, so take in a visit to the 15th Century ageing cellars of the Jean d’Alos shop (near Baillardran) to try some of the best cheeses from the local region and further afield in France.

The March des Capucins is the wholesale market where the chefs go to buy their ingredients. This is also open to the public and absolutely fascinating (and very smelly!).

For a great meal out try Caf de l’Opera in the Grand Theatre. Beside the opera house, it’s run by a pony-tailed Scot, Colum Crighton-Stewart, and he has jazz evenings at the weekend.

Another goodie is La Tupina which offers traditional food from the region, with a rotisserie which is a good photo opportunity.

Make sure you’re really hungry so that you can try their platters of desserts (latupina.com).

For accommodation you could try Hotel Normandie, which has reasonable rates and is very central, though the bedrooms are rather small (hotel-de-normandie-bordeaux.com).

If you want to splash out the Grand Hotel de Bordeaux is Bordeaux’s first 5-star hotel.

It too is very central, and opposite the opera house. With a rooftop Spa and a black swimming pool, check out the view on its fantastic panoramic terrace with sun loungers. In the evening it becomes the Night Beach Bar (ghbordeaux.com).

FACTBOX

Flybe operates on selected dates from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Belfast, Manchester, Newcastle, Guernsey, Jersey and Southampton flybe.co.uk.

Ryanair flies from Cork and Edinburgh ryanair.com.

Tourist Board bordeaux-tourisme.com.