Travel: Charming Norfolk is one of UK’s hidden gems

Before this trip, my knowledge of Norfolk was less than limited – and almost all Norwich-based, thanks to Delia Smith, the frequently under-performing football team, Sale of the Century and Colman’s Mustard.

Beyond that, all I had was the famously offensive medical acronym allegedly reserved for more peculiar patients: “NFN” or “Normal… for Norfolk.”

To Norfolk’s credit, after less than 48 hours there, I was checking local property prices. It’s a charming location. The beautiful scenery, friendly people, clean air, great dining (17 entries in the Michelin Guide, with four “One Stars” and two Bib Gourmands), many marvellous pubs… not to mention a relatively simple commute to many parts of the UK via road, train and even – thanks to Norwich Airport – plane. I’d also met my spirit animal… but more on “Rommel” later.

Where to stay

The main reason for visiting was to explore what Rural Retreats and Norfolk Hideaways offer in the county. You may have used this family of websites already to find holiday (and glamping) accommodation across the UK, as they offer similar services for Suffolk, the Cotswolds, Dorset, Cornwall, Yorkshire, Devon, the Isle of Wight and Ireland.

For Norfolk, there are around 700 properties of varying sizes and specifications, not to mention assorted services and add-ons that can be arranged. In our case, at the glorious Knotting Hill Farmhouse (which, fittingly, is exactly the sort of house where you’d expect to find Hugh Grant having a weekend away with his chums), those included excellent private chefs, a wine-tasting and pairing (from Norfolk winery Burn Valley), a fascinating cocktail making class (by Mindful Mixology) and – undoubtedly needed after such excesses – a yoga class and healthy farewell breakfast.

Located just outside Cley-next-the-Sea (and a shortish walk to the water), Knotting Hill is set in some three acres of land, sleeps up to 18 people (in eight en-suite bedrooms, some with balconies), and offers facilities such as a wood-fired hot tub, sauna and plunge pool. There’s a vast outside seating area and kitchen (complete with a Big Green Egg, pizza oven, fridge and prep area). Inside, as well as a predictably glorious dining room, kitchen and lounge (with open fireplace), there’s also a fully kitted out bootroom and even a dressing-up wardrobe if fancy dress is your thing.

The whole interior is designed by Russell Sage Studios which is, apparently, a very impressive detail if you know about such things. I don’t so all I can say is it’s all rather beautiful, as comfortable as it is stylish, and a great spot from which to explore this fine county. For the record, both websites mentioned have considerably smaller properties for those of us who don’t have a film star’s disposable income or, indeed, that many friends.

Wildlife

Which brings me to Rommel. A moderate drive from Knotting Hill (but closer to other Norfolk Hideaway properties) is the remarkable Watatunga. On first look, I was less than enthused since Watatunga promises a “wildlife safari in Norfolk”, but on further exploration of their website, you soon discover it’s mostly about endangered deer and antelope. It’s not exactly “the big five” but, that rapidly becomes irrelevant as the wisdom and charm and enthusiasm of the team – particularly animal consultant Julian Stoyel, the leading deer conservationist in Europe (if not wider) – is hugely contagious, and the work they’re undertaking, the care being taken, the details, the depth of knowledge is as remarkable as the sheer blooming size of some of the “ungulates” you might spot from your buggy tour of Watatunga’s 170 acres. If you’re lucky, you may even get to spot their majestic water buffalo. You will almost certainly hear and see Rommel though.

Victorian hunters wiped out the British Great Bustard population by 1832 but Watatunga is part of a programme to reintroduce them. Rommel is a delightfully cantankerous example and watches us carefully as we approach, stalking us from his enclosure until he’s sure we’ve left. For my part it was love at first sight, so feel free to insert your own “grumpy Great Bustard” joke here. I’m pretty sure I’ve heard them all and heck, I would have bought the t-shirt if they’d had one…

From there, we make a small detour to the coast. And as we sip soup, watch the moon rise and cruise the waterways on a traditional wooden vessel provided by the Coastal Exploration Company, a thought springs to mind: if a day this blissful is normal for Norfolk, then you can happily count me in.

Farmer John Robinson opened Burn Valley in 2015 and added a vineyard beside his more traditional crops. Daughters Laura and Samantha now run the wine operation, and son Jack runs the farm.

Mindful Mixology began after Danni Wilson learned how much sugar is in cocktails. Packaging is recyclable and sales generate a donation to charity.

P.S. Farmer John Robinson opened Burn Valley in 2015 and added a vineyard beside his more traditional crops. Daughters Laura and Samantha now run the wine operation, and son Jack runs the farm.

Mindful Mixology began after Danni Wilson learned how much sugar is in cocktails. Packaging is recyclable and sales generate a donation to charity.

Factfile

Neil Davey stayed at Knotting Hill Farmhouse as a guest of Rural Retreats (www.ruralretreats.co.uk) and Norfolk Hideaways (www.norfolkhideaways.com) and three-night breaks start from £5,250.

He travelled from London via Greater Anglia Trains which operates regular train services between London Liverpool Street and Norwich. Fares start from just £10 one way.

For the cheapest fares, book direct at www.greateranglia.co.uk or via the Greater Anglia app. Private dining was provided by theprivatechefexperience.co.uk and mayuretreats.co.uk.