Donald Macleod: Diners of the world unite! You have nothing to lose but your soulless chains so get out of the mall and explore a little more

I’VE never been a fan of themed restaurant chains.

Especially those which proliferate our city centres and have gobbled up every available inch of the food courts in our shopping malls, cinema multiplexes and airport departure lounges.

You know the ones – Chiquito, Frankie & Benny’s, Giraffe, Pizza Hut, Nando’s and Wagamama to name but a few.

Convenient if you’re hungry, in a rush, or on a budget, determined to count the pennies not the calories. Not places, and here I speak for myself, you pick if you want a gastronomic experience and good service.

I’ll admit there has been many a time, when these chains have satisfied my hunger pangs and provided, within their soulless and samey walls, much-needed respite.

No more so than back in the day when the wails of screaming weans determined where I ate. Even if it meant putting up with poor service and humongous quantities of almost inedible fried food. Anything for a quiet life!

Not any more, now the kids have grown up and, as I found on Valentine’s Day this week, I could avoid the plethora of chain restaurants that sprawl through Edinburgh’s Ocean Terminal like the plague.

Instead, I happened upon the amazing Roseleaf Bar, where I had a truly fantastic pub lunch – I can’t praise this place enough.

However, I believe the big chains are being unfairly targeted by the media, criticised for the high mark-ups on their food and drink. I’ve owned quite a few restaurants of my own and know just how high the running costs are and the pressures that are brought to bear in trying to keep a business competitive, profitable and afloat.

It can be a daily slog just to try and earn a crust, with no guarantee of success and, sadly, for all too many it’s a depressing journey that ends in tears and a long fall into the financial abyss. Rents, rates, lighting, heating, design and decoration, kitchen and restaurant fit out, cutlery, crockery, advertising all have to be paid for before you even open your doors.

Then you have staff training, staff costs, staff disputes as well as deliveries and supplier costs. Not to mention a PRS/PPL licence to pay for as well as cleaning and rubbish removal along with a host of other charges. High mark-ups on a few food and drink items are necessary if you are to pay the bills and survive.

One food economist’s research suggests Byrons allegedly mark up coleslaw by 1567% compared to the cost of the ingredients, Carluccio’s have put up their spaghetti carbonara by 586% and that Pizza Express classic, the sloppy Giuseppe, has a 480% mark up. They say the prices reflect the quality of the ingredients and other expenses.

But always remember that you have a choice of where to dine. Eat drink and be merry, but get out of the mall and explore.

So here is some food for thought – forget the same old, same old, get stuck in to a small, independent eatery, as I did at the Roseleaf Bar this week, and I’m sure you’ll soon be going back for more.