Norwich cuts the mustard: Quaint joys of close-knit community renowned for Colman’s

WE’RE glad we made the most of our trip to Norwich.

It proved so difficult to get in (and out) of the area that it would have been wasteful not to.

There’s barely a motorway in sight in East Anglia, which can prove inconvenient, as we discovered when a late-night road closure sent us to the back of beyond on our way into the city.

We didn’t fare much better on our way out a couple of days later, traffic delays on the single lane roads adding a couple of hours on to our journey.

So it was a relief that the city centre is easily navigable, vibrant and worth exploring.

On our first morning we found ourselves in Norwich Market, which boasts of being the largest six-day open-air market in the country.

Although a notable number of the 200 stalls seemed to have gone the same way as many high streets and were unoccupied, there was a real community feel about the place as we wandered around.

There was a wealth of food stalls and locals took to perching on the counters, eating and chatting away. It felt quite continental, helped in part by the blazing sunshine forcing its way between the canopies.

The market sits in the shadow of Norwich Castle.

Ordered to be built by William the Conqueror in the aftermath of the Norman conquest of England, it was used for several centuries as a jail.

Since the late 19th Century it has been a museum and art gallery and is well worth a visit, especially if you use the “twilight” offer, where entry is only £2 for the last hour of opening.

We took advantage of that and felt it gave enough time to look around not only the compact interior of the castle building, but also the adjacent and extensive galleries.

Fanning out from the roads between the market and castle are a number of cobbled streets, alleys and lanes boasting an array of independent shops.

Hours could be spent in areas like Elm Hill, Tombland and Bedford Street, going in and out of the shops, cafes, bars and restaurants.

There’s also the stunning Royal Arcade, not only home to boutique shops and eating places but also the location of the Colman’s Mustard Museum, which is exactly what it says on the jar – a collection of curios and historical information about this proud business contained within a shop packed with mustard-related products.

Norwich is a compact city and before long we found ourselves at the stunning cathedral and gardens.

Beginning life more than 900 years ago as the church of a Benedictine monastery, its sheer size alone is enough to make you stop and look around in awe.

The final resting place of Edith Cavell, the heroic First World War nurse, is also here, and her grave has been beautifully re-landscaped to mark the centenary of her death two years ago.

Our stomachs were rumbling after a long day on our feet and I’m pleased to say Norwich is a real foodie’s town, with a wealth of interesting restaurants as well as the standard chain fare, depending on your preference.

Special mention to Café Britannia in the historic Guildhall building, which must have one of the most stunning interiors around, and Brick, a no-frills pizza restaurant that online reviewers gushed over. They weren’t wrong. Both places conveniently sit on opposite sides of the market.

We stayed for two nights at the Best Western Annesley House Hotel, just a short walk from the city centre.

For just a few pounds more than a standard room, we booked the Garden House, a self-contained coach house set in the hotel gardens and overlooking the pond.

With a kitchenette, lounge, upstairs bedroom, bathroom and outside patio, it was like a home from home.

Our time in Norfolk was coming to an end, but we made a slight diversion to Cromer in the north-east of the county to visit the historic grade two-listed pier.

Home to a traditional pier theatre, one of just five still operating in the UK, plentiful crab fishing and boasting stunning views from the 151-metre long walkway, it’s a step back to quainter times.

Speaking of which, it was time to get back on the road and sit behind a tractor until we finally reached a motorway.