A cheery villager beckons me forward and offers me a handful of freshly picked dates – his skin is leathery brown from years spent in the Mediterranean sun and, despite his age, his arms are lean and muscular.
As I bite into the fruit, I’m hit by a rich caramel explosion. I’m in Sardinia, one of the world’s only blue zones, where people live longer than the average life-expectancy.
Walking around the ancient, narrow and winding stone streets of Aggius – where people seem to live life at a different pace to our frantic mobile-phone-fuelled reality – I could understand why.
With new flights direct to Olbia from Edinburgh starting in late May, even the journey to Sardinia is now more relaxed.
My base for this age-reversing trip was Resort Valle dell’Erica, part of the wider Delphina resort. After arriving late the previous night, I drew back the curtains, espresso in hand, and let out an audible gasp.
My balcony looked out on to a dreamy hilltop setting surrounded by lush, rolling greenery that gave way to the shimmering Mediterranean.
I saw why Sardinia is rumoured to be the home of Plato’s mythical Atlantis; the sparkling blue seemed infinite.
If you’re anything like me, the idea of a gated resort sounds like hell. However, Delphina could convert even the greatest sceptic.
The two five-star hotels that make up the resort, Hotel Erica and Hotel La Licciola, are a winding network of rooms, secluded villas, four pools – including an infinity pool – and picturesque restaurants, culminating in a beautiful coastline of hidden coves and a private beach.
It’s no wonder the live-action Little Mermaid was filmed nearby. And, kicking back with the shimmering sea in view and the golden sand between my toes, it was easy to imagine I was in a Robert Louis Stevenson novel.
Don’t worry about feeling trapped, Castaway-style, as the resort itself is massive. There are golf buggies to get around, but, if you have time part of the fun is simply wandering – and often getting lost – in 28 hectares of secluded Sardinian heaven.
Despite the resort’s 271 rooms, other than at breakfast you’d be hard-pressed to find more than a handful of fellow holiday-goers dotted around the pool or in various nooks and crannies, giving the place a relaxed vibe.
Resort Valle dell’Erica doesn’t feel like a behemoth resort due to its tasteful design. All the buildings blend with the natural environment and the décor is rustic, not flashy.
Natural materials are used throughout, together with Sardinian arts and crafts, staying true to the hotel’s family owned roots.
One of the biggest draws of Hotel Erica is its Romanesque spa, offering every treatment under the sun. Now I’d rather spend the day hiking a coastal path or sea kayaking but, in my bid to embrace everything wellness, I decided to go full-out spa zen.
I could have happily lain there all day, looking out to the ocean in between trips to the sauna, but the hotel focuses on thalassotherapy, a seawater treatment, so I felt obliged.
I looked on incredulously as it was explained to me that there are five saltwater pools of varying temperatures with hydro-massaging water jets, designed to enhance circulation, improve muscle and joint problems, cleanse the skin and generally just leave you feeling well.
After sceptically trying out the first few pools, I started to find my wellness groove, so much so that I actually dozed off. I don’t know if it was the full-body massage I had, or the lobster and Aperol spritz that I enjoyed for lunch, or maybe a combination, but I did feel replenished and peaceful.
After some more me-time, I got to try out one of Delphina’s activities as I climbed aboard one of the resort’s small yachts for an excursion to the Maddalena islands. It’s no wonder that the north of Sardinia attracts the likes of Jay-Z and Beyonce – even I felt like a minor celebrity as I sipped my deliciously sweet glass of Vermentino.
As we anchored, it seemed like we had been transported somewhere else entirely. The Maddalena islands are less Mediterranean and more Caribbean, with crystal waters, rugged rocks and breathtaking beaches without a soul in sight. You could spend a whole day hopping between the nearly 60 tiny isolotti.
As the sun shone down and the sea twinkled invitingly, I couldn’t resist a last-minute dip. The clear water seemed like a portal to another world but, as I dived, the seabed didn’t seem to get any closer.
I swam out to a nearby cove and plonked myself down on the white sand to survey the scene. Suspended between Sardinia and Corsica, these islands felt like my own personal paradise and, as the water lapped around my feet, I entered a dreamlike state.
Maybe that’s what sums up my stay at Delphina best – whether enjoying fresh seafood or the red hue of the setting sun over the ocean – I experienced a sense of dreamy delirium and an appreciation of the seemingly mystical powers that make Sardina so life-enhancing.
P.S.: The island has an above-average life-expectancy of 81 years old and the highest rate of centenarians in the world. It’s the only region of Italy not to have a motorway. Designated national parks and wildlife reserves make up 25% of the island.
Factfile: Fly direct from Edinburgh to Olbia from £223 return with British Airways.
Double room half-board starting from £173 per person per night.
Harris Clark was a guest of Delphina Hotels and Resorts.
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