Hoopla, horse-riding and history in San Antonio, Texas

Colonnade arches in the San Jose Mission.

Two-stepping my way over to San Antonio, Texas in my best plaid shirt, I was keen to see what all the fuss was about – thanks to TV saga Yellowstone for my new equine addiction.

My starting point was the annual Stock Show & Rodeo, where I was initiated into the electrifying atmosphere of bull riding, bucking broncos, team roping, mutton bustin, and, erm, Keith Urban!

For the event the cavernous AT&T Centre, home to the San Antonio Spurs, is transformed into a rodeo arena where straw replaces the basketball court and the air is thick with the energy of bucking bulls, galloping mares and high-stakes competition.

An adrenalin rush at the San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo.

There’s barrel racing, which sees women riders competing to shave milliseconds off their rivals’ times, and the wildly entertaining mutton bustin, where children as young as four grip on to sheep for the ride of their lives – perhaps in preparation for the main event. Experienced cowboys wowed the crowd with spectacular spurts of athleticism, the adrenalin pumping as they burst into the arena, aiming to stay on their bucking mare for eight seconds – even more impressively with just one hand!

Without even realising it, I was whooping with the rest of the crowd both at the show and at the infamous Kiss Cam as it scoured the audience for couples who were happy to lock lips. Beyond the rodeo, there is a funfair, sprawling shopping barns, a shaded wine terrace, live animal demos, music and, of course, plenty of Texan barbecue to fuel the festivities.

However, San Antonio offers much more than ranch land – it’s a melting pot of Tejano influences and a deep-rooted Mexican heritage which extends back to the 18th Century.

Historic missions mark Spain’s early presence in the region and I particularly enjoyed learning about this at the Briscoe Western Art Museum on the Riverwalk. With an impressive collection of paintings and sculptures showcasing the Spanish colonial past, its role in cattle drives, and the significance of the Alamo, there is also a

‘Working Cowboy Collection’ with saddles, spurs, and all the related gear providing a glimpse into the daily life of ranchers and rodeo riders.

Additionally there is a current exhibit showcasing women artists and their role in history.

Vaquero culture is legendary – yet the vital role Black cowboys played in shaping Texan identity remains largely unsung. The super-modern Witte Museum sheds light on this lesser-known chapter in an immersive touring exhibit, Black Cowboys: An American Story.

Historians estimate one in four cowboys in the late 19th Century was Black, many of them driving cattle on trails that passed through San Antonio after the Civil War.

The Alamo may be San Antonio’s most famous landmark, and it is still a symbol of resilience, revolution and Texan pride. Established in 1718 as Mission San Antonio de Padua, the site evolved into a military fort where one of the most pivotal battles in American history took place. Today, the Alamo is a Unesco-listed site where visitors can explore the historic church, view artefacts from the battle, and walk through the Ralston Family Collections Centre.

Beyond the pretty city, you can have a go at horse riding for yourself. I headed for some expert tuition at Rancho Cortez in Bandera; known as the “Cowboy Capital of the World”, it sits on the edge of the stunning Hill Country State Natural Area and offers miles of open trails that wind through rolling hills, oak groves and rugged, cactus-dotted landscapes.

Beginners can choose from gentle, scenic trips, while experienced riders have options for more challenging terrain; one of the most magical times is at sunrise or sunset, when the sky transforms into a fiery palette of oranges and pinks.

The ranch, run by enigmatic Larry, also offers lessons in ‘roping’, a rite of passage in the cowboy world. With careful concentration, I was able to form a ‘honda’ and land my lasso around a static plastic bull – a dream come true for any wannabe cowgirl!

As to be expected, the foodie scene is heavy on beef, yet there is also a thriving TexMex scene which caters for plant lovers too. You are spoiled for choice with the restaurants spilling out along the city’s atmospheric Riverwalk, which is bustling at all times.

Try Rita’s for a bite of spice with your breakfast tacos – you can even join a cookery class to learn how to make them like a local. Or book a spot at Josephine Street – a traditional Texas Roadhouse in the Pearl District, built around a 500-year-old tree, which has been serving Southern Texas classics since 1979.

Mi Tierra is another San Antonio institution. Opened in 1941 as a cafe for early-rising farmers and workers at San Antonio’s Mercado, it is filled with Mexicana memorabilia and you can be serenaded by mariachis dressed in full, authentic charro suits.

Cowboy boots for sale in one of San Antonio’s Market Square outfitters.

Finish your evening at the trendy Bombay Bicycle Club in Hemisfair and if you have any energy left, hop on over to a real-life honkytonk at the city’s infamous Thirsty Horse.

San Antonio is on the rise. It’s the fastest-growing major city in the US and is becoming a hot spot for cultural tourism and modern Western cool. This cowgirl will be back – if only to perfect my line-dancing moves and buy a Stetson!

P.S. Did you know that San Antonio is home to the largest Mexican market in the US? Market Square is a vibrant three-block plaza packed with shops, restaurants, and live music – it’s like a little slice of Mexico in Texas!