Scone Spy harbours a desire to return to The Boathouse

The Boathouse Restaurant, Loch Insh (Trevor Martin)

THE wind is howling and the trees are bent double as we arrive at The Boathouse on Loch Insh.

There’s not a single craft on the water, everyone is hunkered down inside.

As a member of staff stokes the huge log burner in the centre of room, we choose a seat by the window and gaze out over the loch with the Cairngorms its dramatic backdrop.

Whipping off our jackets, hats and scarves we greet the waiter and ask for the scone selection.

“Ah,” he hesitates. “They’re still in the oven.”

Our eyes light up. Created on the premises and only just in the oven – you can’t get fresher than that!

The Boathouse Restaurant,<br />Loch Insh (Trevor Martin)

We have a choice of fruit or cheese and order one of each, assuring him we’re in no hurry. This place is warm, and full of character and I’m happy to linger.

The Loch Insh Outdoor Centre, where the Boathouse is situated, offers a string of water sports, wildlife cruises, walks, a 60m dry ski slope and accommodation.

In the restaurant, visitors can devour hearty dishes sourced from local suppliers such as breaded prawns, smoked salmon, mac and cheese and a Boathouse burger.

Our interest on this occasion, however, has to be the scones and my chum and I wait patiently for them to arrive. In the meantime we sip our tea and subtly check out the clientele.

We are in the company of fresh-faced hill walkers, a well-dressed couple gazing lovingly into each other’s eyes, and a family with three young kids, obviously enjoying a reunion with relatives.

The little ones are firing questions.

“How many miles did you drive?” they chorus. “Did you bring your dog?” “Are you sleeping at our house tonight?”

And then one – she’s about seven – earnestly eyes who I guess is her uncle before asking: “Where’s your other face? Mum says you have two.”

Stifling laughter, we’re relieved to have our attention taken by the scones now being delivered to our table.

Still warm, we cut through a golden, slightly crunchy crust before ladling on the butter which immediately melts into the bake.

Inside, the scone is soft, moist and light – an absolutely heavenly bite. And each is generously packed with fruit or cheese. And both are off-the-scale scrumptious, although the jam isn’t home or artisan-made.

This gem of a place in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park – has been owned by the aptly named Freshwater family for almost 50 years.

We pick up our bill (a very reasonable £6.40) and head back to the car, heads down against the wind.

As we pull away, the lights of The Boathouse receding in the rear view mirror, we are already harbouring a desire to return.