Travel: Portrush is Open for business as golf’s big show returns

The low sun casts a golden glow over the sand dunes, where pockets of perfectly manicured lawn appear like an oasis. This is Royal Portrush Golf Club on Northern Ireland’s famous Causeway Coast, where the famous Open Championship is due to start in a few weeks’ time.

As the wind blows through the spiky Marram grass that edges the fairways, it makes a murmur that echoes like distant crowds cheering on former golfing glories.

The place is a hive of activity, as work on massive grandstands, tents, marquees and parking enter their final stages ahead of the event on July 12-16.

When the event was last held there in 2019, it became clear there was a lack of high-quality accommodation in the town, which is expected to welcome in excess of 250,000 people over the four days.

To this end, Dunluce Lodge, a new multi-million-pound resort has been created, overlooking the fairways of the world-renowned Royal Portrush Golf Club, and is the only five-star resort on the Causeway Coast.

The retreat, behind gated access, is exclusive to guests, and has 35 luxury suites. Opened at the start of April and finished to the highest standards, its decor simply oozes luxury.

The suites feature everything you would expect from a lavish hotel: king-size beds, a vast living space, coffee machine, well-stocked mini-bar and an offshoot bathroom area with marble finishes throughout and underfloor heating.

Although squarely aimed at the high-spending golfing community, particularly from the United States, Dunluce Lodge also offers a huge variety of things to do for accompanying family such as a putting green on-site, as well as a luxury spa. It is situated a little way outside Portrush, but within walking distance, although transport can be provided, and free transfers to nearby golf clubs is on offer. There is a lovely bar with a terrace which looks out to sea over the golf course, and an outside fire pit and outside kitchen area, so guests can relax and watch the sun setting over the Donegal coast.

Needless to say, dining facilities are superb, and the menu features the best of local produce, with an emphasis on seafood caught nearby.

Another multi-million-pound investment, which has just been completed, is the transformation of one of the town’s principal hotels, the Adelphi. Now owned by the Marine and Lawn Group, which also owns famous golfing hotels such as Rusacks in St Andrews and the Marine hotels in Troon and North Berwick, it is another oasis of luxury.

Closed for several months while the work was carried out, this town-centre hotel now has 34 unique rooms. Each bedroom boasts bespoke furniture, high-quality bedding and bedside power and USB sockets plus the usual desk, TV and minibar. The highest-quality furnishings indicate this is an establishment offering comfort and tranquility, and the food in the Red Sail dining room blends locally sourced ingredients with Italian favourites.

Away from golf, the area offers a wide range of cultural and sporting activities ranging from basket weaving and glass making to surfing, paddleboarding, e-bike rides and even a portable sauna on the beach.

The area is world-famous for the Giant’s Causeway, a few miles away. Under the care of the National Trust since 1961, the unique mostly hexagonal basalt rocks are simply awe-inspiring. A recently built £18 million visitor centre offers an interactive exhibition, cafe and audio guides, but the causeway itself can be visited free of charge. It takes around 20 minutes, but there is a regular bus service which costs £1 each way, although National Trust members can ride for free.

Along the coast is the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, again a 20-minute walk from the car park and only for those with a head for heights and not scared of a bit of swaying!

Nearby is the world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery at Bushmills, which has been operating since 1608, and offers tours of the distilling process followed by a tasting of several of the whiskeys produced there.

The area has a number of artisan small-scale food and drink producers, and one of the best ways to experience this is to take a two-hour sail along the River Bann from Coleraine on the beautifully restored MV Kingfisher, built at Harland and Wolff. With a full lunch, canapés and locally produced gin provided, there are plenty of opportunities for wildlife spotting on the sail.

© Christopher Hill

The seven-mile-long Benone beach attracts hundreds of people who can park on the sand. Among them is a towable sauna, with access to the sea to cool down. For those who are keen on aquatic pursuits, Ricky Martin and his team at Alive Adventures offer surfing, kayaking and paddleboarding, at locations along the Causeway Coast. Ricky also offers e-bike rides along the coast, with him leading on a cargo version containing the food and drink for a picnic along the way.

Elsewhere, LIR in Portrush is run by Stevie McCarry (of Great British Menu TV fame) and his wife Rebekah. This seafood restaurant, on the banks of the Bann at Coleraine, is growing in popularity due to Stevie’s innovative menus, which included shrimp lasagne and six different flavoured oysters.

Likewise, Shanty offers a wide menu with an emphasis on seafood with lobster a speciality.

P.S. The area is well known for its range of unusual arts products, with many based near the Giant’s Causeway at the Boat House Gallery and Glass Workshop, run by Eleanor-Jane McCartney.

Visitors are able to cut stained glass sourced from the windows of a former local church, and using the Tiffany glassmaking technique, create their own unique masterpiece.

Likewise, a fascinating visit to Louise and Trevor McLean’s studio on the outskirts of Portrush allows you to try out traditional basket weaving.

Factfile

Dunluce Lodge: Rooms start from £299 per room on a B&B basis (dunlucelodge.com) Portrush Adelphi: Rooms start from £245 subject to seasonality & availability per room per night, including full Irish breakfast and VAT. Pet friendly. (marineandlawn.com/portrushadelphi)