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Travel: Glasgow West End whirl: City hip spots whistle-stopped

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You’ve devoured cream-laden scones at The Willow Tea Rooms, admired the Floating Heads of Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum and been tickled by the fronds of tropical plants at Glasgow Botanic Gardens.

So how do you spend a weekend in Scotland’s biggest city when you’ve already ticked off its major tourist attractions?

Those familiar with Glasgow will tell you this is a doddle. After all, the touristy stuff is a bonus, rather than a crutch, in a place most prized for its warmth (not in degrees celsius, sadly) and character. Exploring its nooks and crannies is how you’ll find true joy.

Begin by checking into Hotel du Vin at One Devonshire Gardens, a boutique hotel tucked away on a leafy street in the West End. It’s just a 10-minute drive from the city centre but has a markedly more peaceful vibe.

Comprising five interconnected 19th-Century sandstone townhouses with contemporary-but-cosy interiors, you’ll feel like you’re staying in a posh pal’s country pile – complete with cigar snug and whisky room, naturally.

After a refreshing sleep, kick off your day by taking a stroll to nearby Papercup on Great Western Road. You’ll find the best coffee in the city and a brunch menu that dares to venture beyond Eggs Benedict; think avocado smash with dill mayo, feta, pomegranate and za’atar on toasted sourdough.

Suitably fuelled, you’ll be ready to spend a few hours in The Hunterian. Located on the University of Glasgow’s campus, this is Scotland’s oldest and, in my opinion, most underrated museum.

Entry is free and it’s home to all manner of fascinating objects, from old scientific instruments and anatomical specimens to Roman artefacts, including inscribed stones from the Antonine Wall.

The Hunterian Art Gallery, in a separate building, has works by Whistler, Rembrandt and Mackintosh.

From there, walk through Kelvingrove Park – stopping often to chat to dogs along the way – to reach Finnieston. Though sometimes mocked for its hipster population, there’s no denying its high concentration of fantastic bars and restaurants.

The Ottolenghi-inspired tapas dishes of Alchemilla are consistently excellent, with plenty of inventive options for veggies. The Gannet, meanwhile, is the closest the area has to a Michelin-standard meal (Glasgow presently has no stars).

Pop into the Ben Nevis afterwards for a dram, then make Glasgow Science Centre your next stop. It’s often overlooked by visitors without kids but there’s plenty to entertain adults too.

Make a beeline for the Planetarium for an immersive journey into the cosmos, with the galaxy spread across its hemispherical dome. Or get closer to the stars by ascending the Glasgow Tower, the tallest fully rotating freestanding structure in the world. Its views over the city are unparalleled.

An action-packed day calls for a relaxing evening, so dine at the hotel’s restaurant. Head chef Gary Townsend aims to bring Glasgow that elusive Michelin star with a menu anchored by seasonal Scottish ingredients and enhanced with complementary wine selected by an expert sommelier.

Fall into a delicious food-and-vino coma and give your Sunday morning the respect it deserves: a long lie and a full Scottish breakfast. Then it’s time to journey to the city centre. You won’t be at ground level amid the hubbub for long because you’re going to Central Station for a subterranean tour.

Captivating guide Paul Lyons will have you hanging on his every word, painting a picture of bygone times as you prowl through a maze of underground passages.

You won’t have far to go if you get peckish, as there’s a street food market hidden in plain sight across the road inside former nightclub The Arches.

Every Friday to Sunday, Platform is home to an assortment of independent food stalls to tickle every set of tastebuds.

Round off your trip with a visit to the Barras Art and Design for its Sunday market, where makers sell their wares in its light-filled courtyard.

Even if you don’t buy anything, you’ll enjoy having a natter with the locals as you wander around. And that’s where Glasgow’s real charm lies.


P.S. Music lovers visiting Glasgow should check out Summer Nights at Kelvingrove Bandstand. From July 26 until August 10, the outdoor amphitheatre will play host to a variety of musical acts from Burt Bacharach to Patti Smith.