Travel: Revamped retreat is in Big Smoke but far from the madding crowds

The rhythmic thwack of ball on racket punctuates the still night air in London’s Earls Court district.

It is late and the traffic has died down and, from the high vantage point of my hotel room, the only sounds are from the padel courts across the street and the occasional soft burble of a car passing through the quietened streets.

There was a time when a trip to Earls Court meant music concerts and late nights out. These days, with the famous Earls Court Exhibition Centre demolished in 2014, the area has undergone a similar gentrification to Glasgow’s Finnieston area. As well as the uber-zeitgeisty padel club, a few bars and restaurants line the nearby roads. Now artisan coffee is the drug of choice.

© VIKTOR KERY PHOTOS

Just like the wider area, the hotel I am staying at has seen a dramatic transformation in recent years. The Mercure and ibis London Earls Court Hotel was recently reopened after a multi-million-pound refurbishment, bringing the venue soaring into the 21st Century.

I have just arrived on the train from Edinburgh and, after a quick tube from King’s Cross, I arrive at West Brompton station, which is just a five-minute walk from the Mercure and ibis.

A bit of Google map research shows me I am within walking distance of Stamford Bridge football stadium, home of Chelsea, and not much of a stomp along the road from Fulham FC’s Craven Cottage.

Sadly, my trip means I have just missed live games at both grounds but I make the jaunt along for a look anyway.

There are Stamford Bridge tours running almost every day and they are well worth the cost, from guided visits around the stadium and players’ dressing room to entry to the adjoining football museum and trophy room – although it’s been a few years since they won anything important (sorry, Chelsea fans).

Speaking of awards, whoever redeveloped the Mercure and ibis London deserves a medal because the hotel massively exceeds expectations. From the outside, it is a towering monolith of a building and looks like any other city hotel. But inside, the place feels ultra-luxurious and modern, with impressive interior design, soft lighting and little sectioned-off areas for chilling out or grabbing a coffee or a sandwich.

© viktor kery photos

The theme continues in the rooms, which you can almost tell were once straightforward hotel rooms but are now beautifully stylish and inviting. There are cool, backlit curved panels along the wall behind a massive bed. The storage is cleverly designed to maximise space while keeping the room looking smart and tidy. Then there is a giant TV in front of the bed for those who fancy a night of relaxing. And the bathrooms are pristine, all high-gloss tile and expensive fittings. The whole room looks like a show home for a high-end house builder.

Earls Court is just 25 minutes by tube from the centre of London, allowing you to dart into all the classic tourist spots before nipping back out for a bit of sanity and space at the end of the day.

When I visit, the trains are tightly packed and, after I have spent a good few hours zooming around Westminster, I am delighted to arrive back at the Mercure and ibis for dinner.

© VIKTOR KERY PHOTOS

Barnaby’s Kitchen & Lounge is in keeping with the rest of the hotel, so the interior design is fantastic. The restaurant area looks like a cross between an exclusive club and a chilled-out living room.

The food is excellent and rivals any top gastro pub in the surrounding area, meaning choosing between staying in the centre or coming back out to Barnaby’s is a no-brainer.

After a busy day among the crowds, I am glad to see the restaurant is quiet but, once the word is out on how nice the place is, I suspect that won’t be the case for long.

P.S. Earls Court is just a 20-minute walk to the National History Museum, which exhibits a huge number of specimens from various segments of natural history. While you are there, you can also visit the nearby Science Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museums, which are situated on Exhibition Road in South Kensington.

Factfile

Classic Double Rooms at Mercure London Earls Court Hotel start at £149 per night (room only). Classic Double Rooms at ibis London Earls Court Hotel start at £109 per night (room only). To book, visit: https://all.accor.com/