
Imagine a world with no roads, no cars and no stress. That world exists, and it’s on a small Maldivian island called Ihuru in the middle of the Indian Ocean.
I’d only dreamt about what the Maldives is actually like – until I experienced its magic for myself.
“The sand really is that white; the water really is that turquoise,” I quickly concluded while on my 25-minute speedboat transfer from Male (also known as Velana) airport to my resort, Dhawa Ihuru, part of Banyan Group, a Singaporean hospitality brand, since 1994.
The stress of travelling for the last 16-plus hours from Glasgow-Dubai-Male quickly melted away as I was greeted by waving staff members on the jetty, very reminiscent of TV’s White Lotus.
And I knew I was going to enjoy my stay here at Banyan Group’s upscale boutique resort.
As I checked in at the Barception, in 32-degree heat, I was handed a complimentary mocktail as blue as the ocean I was looking out at! Next, I removed my footwear – and I didn’t put shoes on again until departure day – for it’s a barefoot resort; there’s sand everywhere (even in the restaurant). Then I am accompanied to my secluded sanctuary.
On entering villa number 22 I was wowed by its size and stylish, colourful décor, but it was the view from the French doors that was calling me.
I immediately flung them open and stepped into my private garden, complete with swing chair, dining area, day bed and sun lounger.
Then just a few paces away (21 to be exact) was the white, sandy beach boasting a spectacular panoramic view across the Indian Ocean. It’s a sight that will stick with me for ever.
Surprisingly, the toilet, shower, sink and Jacuzzi are all located outside my private villa, but I overcame my fear on first use.
And you don’t need to worry about anyone snooping, as they are totally secluded and the resort operates a no-drone policy, so you’re completely unseen.
As all-inclusive, family-friendly Dhawa Ihuru has its own house reef, a beautiful coral reef that wraps around the island, and is regarded as the “best diving destination in the Maldives” I had to try snorkelling in open water for the first time. It is also a popular spot for scuba diving.
Ali, recreation manager at Marine Centre, tells me: “Snorkelling is like standing at an open door looking into the room. Scuba diving is you stepping into the room.” Happy to observe the marine life from “the door”, I head into the warm turquoise water – which is 28-30 degrees Celsius – with my snorkel, face mask and fins.
Looking to “the room”, I am amazed by the silent, magnificent world below. It’s tricky to concentrate on breathing through the snorkel as all I want to do is open my mouth in sheer amazement.
I spot colourful fish I have never seen before, like ember parrotfish, red-toothed triggerfish and Black Tip sharks (yes, I am in swimming with sharks!). This is a pinch me moment.
A little further out is the Rannamaari shipwreck, which sunk off the coast of Ihuru over 26 years ago, this is a must-visit for divers.
After my snorkelling experience, I head to 8lements, a spa unlike any other with an open-air reception where treatments are carried out in glass boxes. I leave in a complete state of relaxation, arriving back to my villa in time for the sun setting – the first of six sunsets I would witness during my Maldivian escape.
I sit, alone, on my beach in silence and reflect as I watch the sun setting before disappearing beneath the horizon. Bliss.
That evening, I dine barefoot at the island’s weekly Maldivian buffet night at the beachfront Riveli Restaurant. I don’t feel properly dressed without my wedges, but everyone else is shoeless too.
I try a traditional Maldivian curry and the best butter chicken I have ever eaten, as the Indian Ocean laps on to the shore on my right, just 4m away from my al fresco dining table.
Another of the pinch me moments I have experienced during my stay.
As a solo traveller, I was a little apprehensive about dining – and spending several days – alone on a small, remote island. However, I never felt lonely. Staff at Dhawa Ihuru made me feel so welcome, I had a new friend everywhere I went.
It’s such a positive place to be. As well as a board with daily weather updates, there is also an inspirational quote proudly displayed each day. “Happiness is not by chance, but by choice” it says on day one. I am definitely choosing happiness here, but on this incredible island I don’t imagine there is anything to be unhappy about.
This trip was incredible – total escapism. And, as staff waved me off when my boat left the island, I felt a little emotional. I may have left the Maldives, but the Maldives will never leave me.
P.S. Guests at Dhawa Ihuru can discover the Maldives through a unique twin-island escape as its sister island, Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru, is located just a five-minute speedboat ride away.
Factfile
We flew from Glasgow to Male Airport, via Dubai, with Emirates. Return economy class flights, including 30kg of luggage and booked seats, are around £1,100pp. We stayed at Dhawa Ihuru, North Malé Atoll, in the Maldives. Prices are around £500 per night for two adults staying in a beachfront villa. www.dhawa.com/maldives/dhawa-ihuru
Since its sinking in 1999, the Rannamaari has become a thriving artificial reef, attracting diverse marine life, making it an unforgettable diving experience. In July, Dhawa Ihuru will celebrate the shipwreck’s 26th anniversary in style.

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