Travel: From Frigiliana to Nerja – the best places to explore in the south of Spain

Nerja is a stunning coastal town in Andalucia, an hour by car from Malaga. Once a small fishing village, it has blossomed into one of Spain’s most popular holiday destinations.

Steeped in natural beauty, facing the sea with the Sierra de Almijara mountains rising sharply behind, the old town is typically Andalucian, full of white-washed houses, and pebble streets – perfect for exploring and for discovering independent boutiques and hidden lunch spots.

For the more adventurous visitor, walking along Nerja’s river, the Rio Chillar is one of the best opportunities to soak up the gorgeous natural surroundings. You are required to wade through the crystal-clear water part of the way. And you can enjoy a dip in one of the pools underneath a refreshing waterfall. There are also sea-kayaking trips and lots of kayak and paddleboard hire opportunities on the local beaches.

There is no doubt many of us dream of a second home abroad but, before taking that leap, it is worth spending a bit of time in your chosen destination at different times of year. A spacious villa, elegantly furnished, close to Nerja is very affordable off-season. Spain’s coast is notoriously busy in summer and temperatures can soar.

© Shutterstock / kavalenkau

An autumn or winter break can be much quieter, and the climate is delightful. Residency restrictions as a result of Brexit have become a reality so maybe long-term renting in different places is the answer.

You can find dream accommodation available for a month at a time for less than the cost of a fortnight in high season – ideal if you are retired and have time to explore, but also perfect for the new generation of digital nomads, people who have realised working from home can also mean working from the Caribbean, a Scandinavian city or the Mediterranean. Off-season deals close to home and in similar time zones are the most obviously practical and, in terms of cost, by far the most tempting.

Nerja is the perfect choice – small and friendly yet accessible. Whether you like tennis, golf, walking, cycling, or kayaking, all are available on your doorstep. Cultural and historical attractions are much less busy, but some still might need to be booked in advance.

It is easier to find a table for lunch or dinner off-season, car hire is cheaper if required, but do remember that public transport in Spain is excellent.

Must-visit destinations in and around Nerja include…

Balcon de Europa

The iconic Balcon de Europa, a balcony above a cliff that looks over the sea, is Nerja’s most famous landmark. The views are mesmerising. The Promenade – Paseo Balcon de Europa – is pedestrianised, as are the adjoining streets and it is lined with cafes, restaurants and ice cream parlours.

Caves of Nerja

An amazing experience, you honestly feel as if you are in an episode of Game Of Thrones. Steps around this atmospheric exhibit are easy to navigate, and pathways are well lit. The Tourist galleries represent around one-third of the caves.

Bodegas Bentomiz

This winery is a 40-minute car drive or taxi ride from the centre of Nerja, located in the hills. The drive and the location are stunning. The wines are named after a nearby village, Ariyanas, which translates as “aromatic” in Arabic.

The Alhambra

A little further afield, but still only an hour in the car, is one of Spain’s greatest monuments. The complex includes the remains of the original fortress, built in the 13th Century, plus a palace and summer house built in the 16th Century for Charles I of Spain. The whole site was abandoned and left to decay until the 19th Century when its historic importance was recognised again, and its restoration was undertaken by conservationists. The incomplete, open-air palace now makes a wonderful location for summer music festivals.

P.S.

Just three miles away, Frigiliana often makes it into lists of the 10 most beautiful villages in Spain, thanks to its Moorish old quarter and narrow streets decorated with ceramic mosaics. Well worth exploring the beautiful shops and galleries and treating yourself to a nice lunch.