Calendar An icon of a desk calendar. Cancel An icon of a circle with a diagonal line across. Caret An icon of a block arrow pointing to the right. Email An icon of a paper envelope. Facebook An icon of the Facebook "f" mark. Google An icon of the Google "G" mark. Linked In An icon of the Linked In "in" mark. Logout An icon representing logout. Profile An icon that resembles human head and shoulders. Telephone An icon of a traditional telephone receiver. Tick An icon of a tick mark. Is Public An icon of a human eye and eyelashes. Is Not Public An icon of a human eye and eyelashes with a diagonal line through it. Pause Icon A two-lined pause icon for stopping interactions. Quote Mark A opening quote mark. Quote Mark A closing quote mark. Arrow An icon of an arrow. Folder An icon of a paper folder. Breaking An icon of an exclamation mark on a circular background. Camera An icon of a digital camera. Caret An icon of a caret arrow. Clock An icon of a clock face. Close An icon of the an X shape. Close Icon An icon used to represent where to interact to collapse or dismiss a component Comment An icon of a speech bubble. Comments An icon of a speech bubble, denoting user comments. Comments An icon of a speech bubble, denoting user comments. Ellipsis An icon of 3 horizontal dots. Envelope An icon of a paper envelope. Facebook An icon of a facebook f logo. Camera An icon of a digital camera. Home An icon of a house. Instagram An icon of the Instagram logo. LinkedIn An icon of the LinkedIn logo. Magnifying Glass An icon of a magnifying glass. Search Icon A magnifying glass icon that is used to represent the function of searching. Menu An icon of 3 horizontal lines. Hamburger Menu Icon An icon used to represent a collapsed menu. Next An icon of an arrow pointing to the right. Notice An explanation mark centred inside a circle. Previous An icon of an arrow pointing to the left. Rating An icon of a star. Tag An icon of a tag. Twitter An icon of the Twitter logo. Video Camera An icon of a video camera shape. Speech Bubble Icon A icon displaying a speech bubble WhatsApp An icon of the WhatsApp logo. Information An icon of an information logo. Plus A mathematical 'plus' symbol. Duration An icon indicating Time. Success Tick An icon of a green tick. Success Tick Timeout An icon of a greyed out success tick. Loading Spinner An icon of a loading spinner. Facebook Messenger An icon of the facebook messenger app logo. Facebook An icon of a facebook f logo. Facebook Messenger An icon of the Twitter app logo. LinkedIn An icon of the LinkedIn logo. WhatsApp Messenger An icon of the Whatsapp messenger app logo. Email An icon of an mail envelope. Copy link A decentered black square over a white square.

Mountain An Teallach’s ridge is a tragic tale of a road built by the destitute

© Shutterstock / Karolis TikniusClimbers are visible on the summits of the ridge of An Teallach’s as they enjoy what our writer believes              is one of the most rewarding days to be had on Scotland’s mountains.
Climbers are visible on the summits of the ridge of An Teallach’s as they enjoy what our writer believes is one of the most rewarding days to be had on Scotland’s mountains.

Is An Teallach the finest of Scotland’s mountains?

The grand mountain rises out of the moor south of Dundonnell and Little Loch Broom. It has two Munros – Bidein a’ Ghlas Thuill is the highest at 1,062m (3,484ft); the other, Sgurr Fiona, is slightly lower at 1,060m (3,478ft).

But there’s more to An Teallach than just that – it has eight other summits over 914m (2,999ft). Half are tightly clustered in a narrow, precipitous ridge that curves south-east from Sgurr Fiona for 2km (1.2 miles).

They form a castellated crest with towers of rock thrusting at all angles into the sky – an explosion of Tolkienesque peaks.

The traverse of An Teallach is among the very best mountain days – arguably only bettered by Skye’s Cuillin. Liathach slightly edges out An Teallach in the aesthetic stakes – but there’s more to a mountain than looks. The scrambling on An Teallach is far harder and more sustained than on both Liathach and the Aonach Eagach.

Those who aren’t keen on scrambling will be pleased to know that it’s possible to simply walk to both Munro summits. Even the traverse of the mountain can be completed – just about – by walking.

There’s a bypass path on the west side, beneath the crest, and there are a couple of sketchier parts that are quite exposed. If you’re uncomfortable on such ground, a there-and-back from Dundonnell is the best option.

Scramblers, however, will have a day they’ll never forget. Most books seem to recommend an anti-clockwise route, starting at Corrie Hallie and initially following the path that leads to Shenavall bothy – which is also a good base for the hill for those looking for an overnighter. I prefer the approach from Dundonnell, as the view when you summit Bidein a’ Ghlas Thuill is incredible. No matter how often you’ve climbed it, it’s a sight to set the pulse racing.


Pronunciation: Bid-yin a Glas Hool

(An Cha-lach); Meaning: Peak of

the green-grey hollow (the forge)

Height: 1062m (3484ft); Rank: 72

OS Landranger Map 19

Summit grid ref: NH069844 (cairn)

Nearest town: Dundonnell, almost 5km (3.1 miles) north-east, is not exactly what you’d call a town. There is a bunkhouse nearby and numerous B&Bs. The Dundonnell Hotel is an excellent base, with great food and beer. Campers and campervanners are welcome to pitch up free if you buy a meal.

Start grid ref: NH093879

Distance: 15.6km (9.7 miles)

Ascent: 1,485m (4,872ft) Time: 8hrs


Start from parking area east of Dundonnell Hotel. If possible, leave a second vehicle at Corrie Hallie – where the walk’s outward path regains the road.

Head east along road to a path that leads to the right. It zig-zags up Meall Garbh.

The path climbs again to Sron a’ Choire then swings south-east to a col below Bidein a’ Ghlas Thuill. A steep, stony ridge leads to the summit. To Sgurr Fiona, follow the crest of the ridge south-west to the bealach and then steeply to the summit. The direct scramble to the summit is easy enough.

Now comes the fun part – the scramble over the pinnacles. There are paths that bypass all difficulties – these also involve a bit of exposure. It’s better to stick to the rock. Nowhere is it ever hugely difficult for experienced scramblers, and it’s on great rock with plenty of holds. It’s a Grade 2 in parts.

The far end of the Corrag Buidhe is a graded rock climb (“Moderate”) and should not be attempted without appropriate equipment – backtrack slightly and you can pick your way down a gulley to regain the path.

The scrambling finishes all too quickly. The rest of the day is a walk, over Cadha Gobhlach and Sail Liath. From here head south-east then east, aiming for the south end of Lochan na Brathan, beyond which is the excellent path that leads from Corrie Hallie to Shenavall. Follow the track to the road.

A famous view of An Teallach is from the A832 road, on approach from Braemore Junction.

The huge mountain rears up from open moorland, its splayed, jagged pinnacles tearing into the sky.

It’s an awe-inspiring sight, particularly the pinnacles, and especially if you’re heading there with the knowledge you’ll soon be climbing them. With such an attention-grabbing view, few will give much thought to the road on which they travel.

Its past, however, marks a sad chapter in the history of the Highlands. The section from Braemore Junction to Dundonnell is known as Destitution Road, one of several across the Highlands.

It was built by starving crofting families, for food, under the direction of the Central Board for the Destitute Highlands in the late 1840s after the potato crop failed. The families worked eight hours a day, six days a week. Men got 680g (1.5lb) of oatmeal per day, women half that and children 230g (0.5lb).