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Scone Spy: Beggars Belief Coffee Cove brings pirate charm to Portsoy

Beggars Belief Coffee Cove (Ross Johnston/Newsline Media)
Beggars Belief Coffee Cove (Ross Johnston/Newsline Media)

IF you fancy a cuppa and something tasty while out walking a pooch and kids, nine times out of 10 you’ll need to take a flask and a picnic with you.

Trying to find a cafe that admits dogs and captivates the children is as likely as unearthing buried treasure.

So imagine my surprise when I stumbled on a canine-friendly coffee shop tucked away in a would-be pirates’ cove on the Buchan coast.

Yes, me hearties, me timbers were shiverin’ with excitement at the sight of the Beggars Belief Coffee Cove on the quayside at Portsoy.

The picturesque 17th Century port is said to be the oldest natural harbour in Europe and looks almost as antiquated as the life-sized swashbuckling buccaneer (a mannequin) that met me and my wee westie at the door.

Westie and I bounded in, pieces of eight at the ready.

(Ross Johnston/Newsline Media)
(Ross Johnston/Newsline Media)

This little eatery serves a selection of homemade scones such as fruit, cheese, and cheese and bacon, as well as a delicious selection home bakes and a range of hot and cold snacks and beverages.

It also opens for evening dining when seafood is the speciality, along with hot smoked salmon pate with a haggis filling. Mmm…

However, with the sun not yet over the yardarm, I ordered a bowl of water for Westie and the award-winning Cullen Skink for me – a thick and wholesome soup of smoked haddock, cream, onion and potato.

Westie and I followed this with a shared plain scone (my half with butter and jam and accompanied by a pot of tea.)

And despite the offer to sit inside to browse the cafe’s quirky little gift shop, we headed outside to explore the charming courtyard where the Jolly Roger flapped in the wind and teapots hung from bushes.

(Ross Johnston/Newsline Media)
(Ross Johnston/Newsline Media)

Now I like to think I’m a bit of a connoisseur when it comes to ye olde skink, and this was top-notch.

The scone wasn’t huge, but was scrumptious just the same. Newly-baked and still warm, it  melted in the mouth.

I was full to bursting by this point, but I wandered over and had a look at the puddings all the same. And they looked more than good enough to eat. Next time I’m in these parts I’ll definitely leave room for the sticky toffee pudding and a cheeky wee traybake or three.

Our bill was just a little over a fair price of £8.

A scone and a bite to eat is such an affordable treat for most of us – and I know it’s not just me who thinks that a wee daytime cafe jaunt is just the ticket sometimes.

(Ross Johnston/Newsline Media)
(Ross Johnston/Newsline Media)

Fancy restaurants are fine but quirky cafes are really where I want to be.

I would loved to have stayed longer, but had to head home.

There was just enough time to visit the clean loo, before bidding the cove farewell.

Darn it, I should have come earlier. Oh well, you know what they say: “To err is human, but to arghhh is pirate!”

Warm Welcome 7/10 Location, Location 9/10 Scone Score 7/10


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