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 Mike Cawthorne hit the headlines when he wrote about his epic winter journey in the Scottish hills. Now living in the Highlands, to be near his beloved mountains, he explains why he’s happiest when he’s hiking.
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MY
first proper walk was up Ben Nevis when I was seven and it lasted
forever. About halfway my brother and I must have started
complaining because my father promised he would buy us hot
chocolate and toasted sandwiches from the cafe at the top.
He
lent me his jersey, about 10 sizes too big. I needed it because,
though it was August, snow covered the summit and a freezing wind
swept through the ruins of the old observatory.
I
wondered why anyone would want to live in such a place, and I
wondered why it was snowing in August. Peering into a gully where
snow danced around like confetti, I forgot my tiredness and the
hours of toil and felt strangely elated. There was no cafe, of
course, but it didn’t matter. I had climbed my first mountain,
and it felt good.
From
that day, mountains became my childhood obsession. Scouring maps
and atlases, I memorised their names, their heights, wanting to
climb them all, particularly those in Scotland.
Ben
Nevis was the beginning of a long journey, a series of
life-enhancing experiences that has taken me to some of the most
beautiful places in the world. And the key to all these
experiences is simply the putting of one foot in front of the
other.
Perhaps
because in their shadow I’ve passed some of my happiest days, I
have never managed to stray too far or for too long from the
Scottish hills, to my mind the finest uplands in the world.
In
the early days I’d travel up by public transport to complete
long through routes, camping, bothying, sometimes taking in Munros,
though the main aim was always exploration.
Munros
did become a feature in 1986, when, with a friend, I climbed them
all in a single 1700 mile journey, a wonderful and never-to-be
forgotten episode in my life.
Eleven
years later, and seeking a greater challenge, I went on a solo
winter trek over Scotland’s 1000 metre peaks, all 135 of them.
Surviving on food parcels buried beforehand, I was out for four
and a half months and walked 1600 miles in a particularly wet and
stormy winter.
 I’m
often asked, why bother to walk? Do it regularly and you’ll gain
fitness and shed stress, but walking is much more than a healthy
antidote for a modern hurly-burly lifestyle. Walk to a place and
somehow it’ll appear more vivid and real than if you’ve merely
driven there. A good walk is life-enhancing, and should be
undertaken in a spirit of adventure, discovery and contemplation.
Mostly
I have no schedule. Six miles may take as many hours, or it may
take two. The slow pedestrian will likely see more, take more
away, be more eager to return. Schedules are for the
unimaginative.
What
to bring? I’m rarely without my camera and binoculars, always
carry a map, pen and notepaper, and usually take pocket books to
identify birds and plants.
For
me a walk is always a special event, so for food I pack a picnic:
Indian snacks from the deli, rolls filled with smoked salmon and
trout, a slice of cake, piece of fruit. And for equipment all you
will ever need you probably have already: decent footwear that
covers the ankles, waterproof jacket, a good hat, small knapsack.
Whether
walking for you is a new activity or a lifetime’s interest,
there will be something in this Special for everyone. Enjoy.
Hell of a Journey by Mike Cawthorne, published by Mercat
Press, £12.99.
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What
you need to know before you go
The
Mountaineering Council of Scotland is the representative
body of climbers, walkers, mountaineers and ski
mountaineers in Scotland.
It
provides information sheets on everything from walking and
climbing to access and conservation and, most importantly,
how to enjoy our countryside in safety.
Here
are their guidelines before you take to those hills,
forests or beaches.
Before you go
Before setting out on any trip, obtain a weather forecast
from national and local radio, television, newspapers or
one of the dedicated mountain weather forecast telephone
services. Leaving word of where you are going can be a
good idea — but remember to let someone know when you
return.
Planning
Choose a walk appropriate to you or your group’s
experience, fitness, navigation skills, knowledge of the
area and the prevailing weather conditions. As a general
rule, take children only on routes that have a safe and
easy retreat. Don’t take them on long walks. Consider
turning back if someone in your group is tiring or getting
cold.
What to take
Clothing
Warm, wind and waterproof clothing is essential. This
should include gloves, hat, fully waterproof and windproof
jacket and trousers and spare clothing such as a warm
sweater. Remember, it will get colder and windier the
higher you climb.
Equipment
Always carry a map and compass and — vitally important
— know how to use them.
If you’re going somewhere remote, carry a torch,
whistle, first aid kit and emergency shelter. These items
are inexpensive and readily available from all outdoor
shops. The emergency signal is six blasts on the whistle
or six flashes with the torch. Remember that mobile phones
don’t always receive a signal in the hills, so don’t
rely on them for getting help in the event of an accident.
Footwear
Your footwear should provide good ankle support and have a
firm sole with a secure grip. Hillwalking boots are
strongly recommended.
Food and drink
Take ample food and drink for each member of your group.
Always take reserve supplies. Simple high energy foods are
best, like chocolate, dried fruits, cheese and biscuits
(see The Perfect Packed Lunch). Drinking fluids throughout the journey is
almost more important than eating but avoid tea and coffee
as they’re diuretics. If you drink fresh water make sure
it’s from streams that are well away (upstream) from
farms and farming stock, i.e. on the open hill, in case of
E.coli or other infections.
The MCofS has published a series of information sheets on
Health in the Hills all about these issues, including
midges and repellants!
Tracks and paths
Mountain paths are not signposted and even those marked on
maps may sometimes be difficult to trace. It is very easy
to follow a sheep or deer track that leads nowhere. Use
your map and check your location at all times.
For the list of information sheets and their cost, send
a stamped, addressed envelope to Mountaineering Council of
Scotland, The Old Granary, West Mill St, Perth PH1 5QP or
see their website at www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk
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Listen to BBC Radio Scotland, local radio and TV weather.
Pay per minute phone lines give a five day forecast for walking areas.
Mountain Call West
09068 500 441
Mountain Call East
09068 500 442 or visit www.scotlandonline.com/weather/
www.onlineweather.com
www.smc.org.uk
and
www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk
have links to walking clubs or try your local library or newspaper.
www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk
or www.harveymaps.co.uk
or head for your local book shop or newsagent.
www.visitscotland.com
or tel. 0131 332 2433 for hotels, B & Bs, campsites, hostels and self- catering throughout Scotland. Or follow links to regional sites.
www.syha.org.uk or tel. 01786 891 400 to reach The Scottish Youth Hostel Association who have hostels all over Scotland.
www.highland-hostels.co.uk
or www.hostel-scotland.co.uk
list bunkhouses, independent hostels and self-catering accommodation.
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