YOU only have to stand on the bustling Landsbrucken jetties, lined with cafés, shops and kiosks, to understand why Hamburg is known as the gateway to the world. Germany’s largest port, situated on the banks of the River Elbe, is a popular stopping-off point for everything from majestic ocean-going liners to tankers and a cruise around the harbour is one of the best ways to soak up the maritime atmosphere. During our one-hour tour with an informative commentary (check that it’s in English before you board), we sneaked a privileged glimpse of billionaire Bill Gates’s yacht in for a refurb and watched cranes loading massive container ships bound for all corners of the globe.

The brand new Port of Dreams — BallinStadt Emigrant World visitor centre — has been built in memory of around five million emigrants who came to Hamburg at the turn of the 20th century to seek their fortunes. Now millions of tourists are flooding in — lapping up the heady mix of attractions, from the red-bricked fish market to the designer docklands of the new HafenCity complex, one of Germany’s most ambitious building projects.

Our large party of Scots had come to discover why Hamburg was suddenly catapulted last year into the Top 10 ranking of most-visited European city destinations. Despite the city’s name, we didn’t have to resort to fast food — apart from trying some heavenly herb and curry-flavoured sausages from a stall at one of the many outdoor markets. For this foodie haven is renowned for its culinary credentials — with numerous starred restaurants, no other German city boasts as many award-winning chefs. 

The mouth-watering eateries range from Tibetan and Turkish to Iranian and Syrian, so you don’t have to indulge in dumplings and schnitzel. Yet you really should experience the hearty German fare and buzz of at least one of the rowdy, wooden-benched dining halls with buxom wenches serving up platters of meat and kegs of beer. 

So why has Hamburg become such a must-see destination? Well, in our new eco-friendly era, it is one of the greenest cities in Europe, as parks, waterways and woods cover almost half the area within the city boundaries. In fact, despite a thriving population of 1.7 million, there are more trees than people, which make the lake shores and riverbanks particularly colourful in autumn. And there’s a dazzling display of fountains, too.

Due to a prominent police presence, it is probably less scary to wander around the infamous Reeperbahn than it is to visit one of the city’s best tourist attractions — Hamburg Dungeon. Here, in a converted cellar, you get spooked by 2000 years of blood-curdling history vividly brought back to life . . . and death. The Great Fire, the plague, floods, pirates and a brand new torture chamber are bound to send shivers down your spine. One of our party shuddered at remembering Kevin Keegan’s bubble perm in the 1970s when he played for SV Hamburg . . . would that dark memory feature deep within the vaults?

Kids large and small will enjoy Hamburg’s Miniatur Wunderland — the largest model railway in the world. Unfortunately, there’s nothing miniature about the queues — but once inside, you can marvel at the interactive exhibitions that include the present construction of the Alps, for which ceilings had to be removed. 

As long as you have a head for heights and no heart defects, the 132-metre tall spire at the top of one of the best city landmarks — St Michaelis Church — offers panoramic views. As does the swaying HighFlyer Fesselballon, which is guided by licensed pilots and lifts off to a giddy 150 metres above what begins to resemble a real miniature wonderland below.

Add to that the dizzy array of exclusive boutiques along the Neuer Wall boulevard and the floors of stores reached by glass elevators in the Europa Passage shopping centre, and I can more than understand why Hamburg has become such hot property. Winter is one of the coolest times to visit, when a musical, an ice-hockey match with the Hamburg Freezers or gluhwein steamboat cruise on the lake can be enjoyed after shopping till you drop for crafts and home-baked goodies at the famous 12 Christmas Markets. 

You’re bound to find a bargain, but if you don’t get a deal, cheer up at DOM — the biggest funfair in northern Germany. Held three times a year (spring, summer and winter), it attracts people of all ages with its spectacular rides, nostalgic merry-go-rounds and sea of bright lights.

Bridget travelled with British Airways who fly seven days a week, four times a day from Heathrow to Hamburg with connections available from Glasgow, Edinburgh and Aberdeen. 
For more info visit www.ba.com 

A HamburgCARD will provide unlimited access to all public transport and free or reduced admission to top tourist attractions. Visit www.hamburg-tourism.de