NOT so long ago cruising came with a label attached. It was something very rich retired people did, with their cabin safes stashed with gala dinner diamonds. But over the last few years, cruising has changed beyond all recognition to the extent that when a budget airline offered budget cruises around some of the Med’s most stylish ports, it caused something of a stir. Local berth holders claimed that the gaudy cruise ships and their contents were lowering the tone.

Not everyone wants to go budget, however, and there’s now something for those who want to enjoy the experience of the well-heeled whilst also keeping the bank manager at bay.

Island Cruises offers what it describes as ‘relaxed, friendly and informal cruising’. There are no set timings for dinner, no standing on ceremony and no dress code, leaving guests to enjoy the onboard facilities as and when they want to, while being free to explore destinations along the way.

One of the things that struck me most about the experience was just how quickly I had that getaway feeling. The sheer size of our ship at the dockside was awe-inspiring and just an hour after landing at Palma airport, we were onboard.

The Island Star holds more than 1800 passengers in over 750 cabins, but its nine floors soon felt easy to navigate, with the facilities impressive to say the least. As well as offering a choice of several restaurants and bars, there were two swimming pools and whirlpool baths, a kids’ club, health and beauty salon, theatre, gym, Internet café, library and good choice of shops. 

And the cabins themselves were impressive, too. Though not particularly luxurious, our standard cabin was surprisingly spacious with an en suite bathroom with a really good shower, TV and telephone. Premium cabins included balconies, while at the top end, the ship’s suites offered large lounge areas and walk-in wardrobes.

One of the best things about cruising the Med is that distances between stops can be covered overnight. Apart from the first day, which we spent at sea, we arrived at a new port every day. Our Mediterranean Spirit cruise took in five stops, which included Messina in Sicily, Naples and Livorno in Italy, Toulon in the south of France and Barcelona, before returning to Palma where, depending on return flight times, you could spend most of the day exploring before setting off for home.

Independent travellers can easily organise their own itineraries at each port, with taxis and public buses pulling in alongside the dock and, in many cases, plenty to see and do within walking distance of the ship. We booked two organised trips though and were very glad we did. Our morning in Pompeii, a fair drive from Naples, was a highlight of our holiday. The Roman streets and houses were preserved under layers of ash after Vesuvius erupted in 79AD. It wasn’t until the 18th century that they were discovered, and Pompeii’s streets gradually uncovered. Today, the shells of its businesses and homes, market places and temples bring history to life, offering an insight into Roman life unlike anywhere else in the world.

At Livorno, we set off on a bike tour of Pisa, joining a small group of others to cycle the back streets to the heart of the city, taking in the sights along the way. It made an interesting alternative to the coach tours on offer that day, allowing us to see more of the city than we ever would have done on foot.

In Toulon, we browsed one of the largest Provencal markets in southern France, snapping up olives, fresh bread, spit-roasted chicken and a bottle of local rosé for a picnic on the beach. Toulon’s beach was rather charming, and remarkably unspoilt, with a large bay and gardens making it all the more attractive.

Barcelona was every bit as impressive as we had been told it would be, with the city tourist bus a good way to take in the sights with ease, including the bustling Las Ramblas, magnificent architecture by Gaudi, the Gothic Quarter dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries and the attractive Parc de la Ciutadella. One of our favourite experiences was the Mercat de la Boqueria, a large indoor food market where huge Serrano hams jostled for space with row upon row of cheeses, lavish displays of fresh fish and fragrant fruit and vegetables. The sing-song cries of the sellers added to the atmosphere. It’s a great place to try traditional tapas, with small pull-up bars offering some of the most authentic delicacies in the city.

It would have been easy to have eaten for the entire week on our cruise ship as all-inclusive restaurants opened around the clock, with breakfast leading in to elevenses, elevenses on to lunch, lunch on to afternoon tea and so on. A daily buffet was available at The Harbour Café, featuring both a cold selection and choice of six or so hot meals as well as a large cheeseboard and plenty of wicked desserts, while an outdoor grill offered burgers, sizzling steaks and chicken as well as salad at lunchtime.

In the evening for a supplement, guests could enjoy classical dining at The Oasis Restaurant, top-notch grills at The Steak House or choose from all-inclusive buffet selections at both The Beachcomber and Island Restaurants. Though offering a reasonable choice, we found the buffets rather limiting and after discovering the paid-for restaurants were far superior, wondered if perhaps this level of dining should have been offered to everyone without the premium.

But this was one of few criticisms we had about our cruise. Included in the price were plenty of extras, such as talks and fitness classes in the day time while in the evening, there were pub quizzes, cabaret, live music, a showcase of West End style song and dance and tribute acts. After dark, sitting out on deck became all the more enjoyable too, with the Mediterranean coast and lava fireworks of Mount Etna on Sicily lighting up the skyline.

One of our concerns about the cruise had been whether we might feel part of a floating holiday camp, but this wasn’t the case, with plenty of quiet spots around the boat offering places to read or snooze in peace. We enjoyed the freedom of spending time on shore or in the ship’s pools and gym as we fancied, and we also met some interesting people during our week.

Excellent service ranged from regular appearances from the cheery captain, who seemed very much at ease chatting to passengers over a cup of tea, to the attention to detail of the chambermaids who left daily towel sculptures of animals and flowers on the beds.

What sold the cruise to us the most, however, was the friendly atmosphere. If you’re looking for a getaway where you can do what you want, when you want, while also being able to see much more of the Med than you might on a standard beach holiday, you’ll certainly enjoy it.

Island Cruises’ Mediterranean Spirit cruise departs from Palma with dates throughout 2008. Flights to Palma can be arranged from several UK airports including Edinburgh and Glasgow. Call 0161 772 8600 for more information or see www.islandcruises.com